“It was the perfect lesson for a mate I had in training,” said Capt. Bouncer Smith. “We put a GPS mark on the center of a wreck, another at its southern end, and then anchored on that south mark. My mate questioned why we weren’t fishing directly over the wreck. When we began catching big predator fish, and managed to keep them out of the wreck, he understood why.”
The artificial reef/wreck network off Miami-Dade and Broward counties is immense, with more than 100 sites established by their respective artificial-reef departments. Add in the “unofficial” ones — hard-luck vessels and other large-scale debris scattered about the ocean floor –– and there are plenty of condensed ecosystems between 20 and 250 feet of water that abound with both bottomfish and pelagics. In fact, everything from grunts to broadbill swordfish have come off these reefs.
For the pros, fishing wrecks is not unlike going to the fish market. Yet, less-experienced anglers are often befuddled over what techniques to use. Capts. Bouncer Smith and Skip Dana, two top-tier reef- and wreck-fishing pros in Miami-Dade and Broward counties, recently revealed their potent tactics for catching more and bigger fish on these wrecks.
“The first thing is to understand the relationship of fish on a wreck,” Smith says. “Porgies, muttons and other snapper, along with kingfish, blackfin tuna and sailfish, mostly hang on the down-current side of a wreck. On the up-current side — where more energy is required to buck the current — you’ll find large alpha predator fish, which get the first pickings of food sweeping to the wreck. These are large, aggressive grouper — blacks and gags — amberjack, Almaco jack, African pompano, yellow jacks and such. On top of the wreck, it’s yellowtail and mangrove snappers.”
Dana favors low-profile wrecks for snapper, grouper, and porgies, and high-relief wrecks for amberjack, Almaco jacks, African pompano, permit, runners, and pelagics like sailfish, kingfish, blackfin tuna, and wahoo. “I also believe the type of material of a wreck attracts certain fish,” Dana says. “Wooden wrecks seem to hold more porgies and snapper — perhaps because of worms and other sea life, which bore into the wood and provide food — while metal wrecks hold more jacks.”
The best time to investigate a wreck site is when wind and current are light. Given the variety of bottomfish and pelagics, your strategy and tackle selection should be systematic.
“If we feel grouper are on a wreck, we’ll anchor and drop large baits on heavy tackle, as opposed to using our lighter bottom outfits, and risk hooking and losing a big grouper and shutting down the bite,” Smith says.
Smith’s large grouper rig consists of a three-way swivel joining the 80- or 100-pound braid main line to 40 feet of 100-pound mono leader. The weight, just heavy enough to hold bottom –– often 1 pound or better in deep water with current — attaches to the third swivel eye on 3 feet of 60-pound mono, so if the weight snags, the lighter mono breaks first, sacrificing the sinker but saving the terminal rig.
He’ll send down a blue runner, goggle-eye, large pinfish, and especially a small live bonito or speedo (frigate mackerel) with a VMC circle hook through either both jaws or the upper jaw. After 15 or 20 minutes, whether a big grouper or two has been boated or not, he’ll deploy the other bottom outfits.
Those other bottom outfits include conventional reels filled with 30- and 80-pound braid, and terminal rigs comprising a three-way swivel, 40 feet of 60-pound mono leader, a 6/0 VMC circle hook and enough weight to hold bottom; baits include live pilchards, cigar minnows or herring (hooked through both lips). This nabs the muttons, smaller grouper, mangroves, big yellowtails, Almaco jacks, amberjack, African pompano and cobia.
Smith says if bites are tough to come by, he’ll add a small swivel and extend the already-long leader by another 10 feet, using 50-pound fluoro, or 80-pound for big grouper. “It can make a big difference,” he says.
On the flat lines — 20-pound-class spin and conventional gear — it’s 15 feet of 50- or 60-pound mono leader, capped
with a 10-inch trace of No. 4 wire and a 6/0 VMC circle hook. Pilchard and herring baits are hooked behind the head (light current) or through their lips or nostrils (strong current). These outfits — along with the two others fished off the kite — will cover all the pelagics.
“There’s no better way to fish an artificial reef than with a livewell full of pilchards, anchored just upstream, and deploying bottom, middepth, and surface baits — and live-chumming,” Smith says. “Do that all day during winter and spring, and you’ll pretty much catch the whole lineup — and go home with sore arms!”