Dolphin fishermen will really reap the benefits of the weedless ballyhoo, especially when trolling through sargassum-filled waters.
|
Sargassum weed is held in high esteem by anglers throughout the Atlantic, as game fish often gather under or near mats of this floating marine vegetation. Sargassum supports mini-ecosystems comprising algae and plankton, as well as juvenile crustaceans, shrimp and small fish such as rudderfish, bar jacks, puffer fish and more. Locate an offshore weed line teeming with life and game fish such as dolphin, wahoo, tuna and billfish shouldn't be far away.
Although sargassum weed is a most welcome find during a long run offshore, it can be a real pain when it's not tightly packed in a large mat or weed line. When the weeds are scattered in small clumps, they can make trolling a laborious proposition, as the baits must continually be checked and cleaned. Sometimes it becomes such a hassle that it forces anglers to look for cleaner water. And that could prove a costly mistake, as they could be leaving a productive area.
Fortunately, there's a solution. Thanks to the weedless ballyhoo, it's possible to troll through the thickest of weeds without fussing over fouled baits. The rig described below was born from a frustrating day of trolling for dolphin around scattered clumps of weed. After cleaning the stuff from my baits for the umpteenth time, I swore that there had to be a better way.
(top) Weed lines such as this are likely hangouts for dolphin, tuna, wahoo and billfish, but can cause headaches when trolling standard lures. (bottom) Weedless rigs keep your baits in the water longer, allowing the crew to focus on finding fish.
|
I considered the way fresh water bass fishermen often reverse the hooks on their plastic baits, so that the point is hidden in the body to make them weedless. Why wouldn't the same thing work for offshore trollers pulling ballyhoo? As you will see, the weedless ballyhoo is rigged in similar fashion to a plastic worm. It's simple in concept and just as effective when trolled around heavy cover.
All potential "snag points" on the bait and leader system have been eliminated. For instance, an octopus skirt with a small leader opening is placed over the head of the bait, completely covering the beak, the wire wrap and the pin. The skirt is designed to deflect any weeds. In addition, the hook point has been hidden inside the bait, so that it too will not snag any weeds.
There are two key points to remember when trolling the weedless ballyhoo. Because the hook point is embedded in the bait, it's necessary to give the fish more time to chew on the ballyhoo. This will soften the bait and allow the hook to penetrate more easily. Another important step involves scaling the ballyhoo around the area where the hook point is embedded, including the belly, sides and back. This softens the mid-section of the bait, allowing it to "release" the hook during the set.
Ball-bearing snap swivels don't snag many weeds. However, if they're causing a problem, try adding a plastic spacer bead or two, followed by a tiny octopus skirt, ahead of the swivel. The skirt will cover the swivel and keep it from snagging weeds, while the spacer beads will keep the skirt from binding against the swivel and inhibiting its performance.
For most trolling, I'll use a mix of swimming or plain ballyhoo rigged in a traditional manner. However, I'll keep several weedless ballyhoo in the brine cooler, just in case. Should conditions dictate a switch, I'll simply swap out the baits, rearrange them in an attractive fashion, and continue trolling.
The Weedless Ballyhoo
Step 1: Limber up a fresh ballyhoo by holding its head with one hand and pressing firmly along its backbone with the thumb and index finger of your other hand. Begin at the head and work toward the tail. The object is to separate the backbone from the meat; you'll feel a distinct cracking sound as you accomplish this. Be careful not to apply too much pressure or you will tear the skin.
|
 |
Step 2: Take a length of 100- to 120-pound monofilament or fluorocarbon leader and use a loop knot to tie on a 7/0 or 8/0 long-shank hook. Clip the tag end of the knot, leaving a pin-like piece of mono facing toward the point of the hook. Secure a length of soft rigging wire to the mono loop.
|
 |
Step 3: Lay the hook underneath the ballyhoo to visualize where the point will enter the bait. Take the point of the hook and mark the entry spot. Break off the bait's beak just ahead of its jaws.
|
 |
Step 4: Open the ballyhoo's gill plate, insert the hook into the throat latch and thread the bait onto the hook a fraction of an inch. Push the hook point back out of the bait, right behind the throat latch. Pull the rest of the hook out of the bait, leaving just the eye in the throat latch.
|
 |
Step 5: Reverse the hook, slightly contort the ballyhoo and place its point back into the bait, right where you marked it. Adjust the riding attitude of the hook by inserting the point deeper into the bait, while positioning its eye to rest under the bait's jaws. Run the soft copper wire through both eyes, followed by a series of firm wraps beginning at the back of the pin, down both jaws, and onto the leader. Trim the excess wire.
|
 |
Step 6: To make sure the bait has been rigged properly, hold it in one hand while tugging on its leader with your other hand. The tension should be absorbed by the bait's head, and not the hook. If there's any binding, the bait will spin.
|
 |
Step 7: Take a knife and thoroughly scale the area around the hook, making sure to do the belly, back and both sides.
|
 |
Step 8: Cut a tiny hole in an octopus or small plastic trolling skirt and slide it onto the leader and down over the ballyhoo's head. Then tie an overhand loop knot in the end of the leader. A small plastic skirt can also ride over the snap swivel on the end of the fishing line, preventing it and the leader loop from collecting weeds. Add a plastic spacer bead between the swivel and skirt. The spacer bead will keep the skirt from binding against the swivel and hindering its performance.
|
 |
Email this article
Printer friendly version
Back
